London Fashion Week Trend Report
Go Big or Go Home
London Fashion Week was a party that celebrated oversized tailoring, loud prints and the natural world. But what are the trends from the runways we need to adopt in our own wardrobes this 2024?
20th February 2024
Go big or go home seemed to be the unspoken motto between designers this season. The 80’s power suit is back in all its glory. Edward Crutchley had the crowd sit on school-like benches in the regal Ironmongers Hall that were so close you could almost touch the person opposite you. When the models came storming down the runway in their animal prints and cowboy hats, the fibreglass shoulder pads physically imposed on the crowd (I saw some narrow misses between noses and phones). The whole show was a wacky combination of stately Tutor kings and western cowboys who have a few too many cowhides in their wardrobe’s. The grandeur of these oversized styles also featured in Patrick McDowell’s orchestra performance. From oversized, bow-adorned bustles to puffball padded hips, the way to make a statement this autumn is clearly a competition of who can take up the most space on the rush hour tube. ERDEM went big in the form of feathered jackets and dresses that resembled an incredibly luxurious nostalgia of Blair Waldorf’s pyjamas, it's only right that Kelly Rutherford happened to grace the guestlist.
This leads on to the unsurprising resurgence of the ‘bubble’ skirt, which frankly we aren’t mad about. A strange amalgamation of Victorian silhouettes and 80’s disco dresses, the piece was seen on many catwalks in many colours. Momonary, Marques Almeida, Amy Lynn, Mithridate and countless more. Paired with a drop-waist, that is reminiscent of everything early-2000’s and Sinead Gorey, the ‘bubble’ skirt was floor length and regal for Mithridate but micro and bedazzled for Momonary. However, you look at it, it's an iconic piece, and it's coming back!
Floral silhouettes with a touch of sparkle were prominent for several designers. Annie’s Ibiza goes without saying, while Mithridate, Momonary and Di Petsa all showed off flower-profile adornments. Momonary stood out as it was one of the first shows of the week, while the colours were kept to the natural and neutral, the theme of the show was cartography and treasures. There were repeated tulle flower petals as well as gold-embroidered flowers connected to make jackets and handbags that resembled a thick lace. The designer said that the flowers
‘act as coordinates, marking our journey’
which was an intriguing concept that gave the show a philosophical and nature orientated backdrop. Mithridate took organic floral forms to the next level while exploring the harmony between humanity and the natural world. Accompanied by Emily Wilson on the harp, the show was heavy with jewelled adornments resembling exotic flowers, perched on the shoulders of the models. The more 2D embellishments created natural patterns on the surfaces of the thick velvets and knits, the sparkle emulated both shattered glass and droplets of rain - bridging nature and humanity.
If there’s one trend to take away from LFW, it’ll be this. Animal prints and silhouettes are back in business. From fur and feathers to leopard print and mermaid tails, many designers looked to the animal kingdom for inspiration this season. To start with my absolute favourite, Frolov hosted an extremely sexy red room runway that featured feathers, mohair, leather and above all - leopard print. It does feel slightly as though Gen Z have predicted this trend on TikTok, but who cares if everyone loves it. The brand showed several corsets and dresses in the print, but the standout was an extreme drop-waist corset dress with a flowing mermaid tail skirt and train - leopard from head-to-toe. The Ukrainian designer talked fondly of his childhood in Crimea, ‘I remember women, selling corn and ice cream on the beaches, who mixed and matched all possible animal prints’, which led to the design of the dress. It's fascinating that a heavily animal inspired garment was actually derived from people - continuing other designers' ideas about our relationship with the natural environment. Meanwhile, Mithridate showed off a gorgeous all black mermaid dress and Edward Crutchley’s animal prints felt the most alive of them all. Young designer Sinead Gorey had a standout mermaid tail with a head-to-toe scale pink and purple union jack that had all the rage of British youth culture and the visual impact of a bold print. Prints in general were popular this week with the designer bringing patchwork tartan back to its prime. Helen Anthony showed colour blocking of tweed and tartans on blazer lapels while Burberry of course featured refined variations of their iconic nova check.
Overall, the week was all about scaling up your workwear wardrobe with shoulder pads and palazzo trousers, puffball evening attire, floral glitz and animal prints. Minimalism is long gone and here's to the anniversary of London Fashion Week that gave us all the grandeur of a party not just in the afterparties and nightclubs, but on the streets and catwalks too.